Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are globally an extremely interesting and innovative ingredient for the cosmetics sector. Due to their lipid nature, they are easily absorbed by the skin, leading to an optimal cosmetic effect even in the deeper layers of the skin. Their use as an ingredient in various formulations is still a major challenge for the skin cosmetics industry, where only a few products report the presence of EVs in their formulation. Compared to traditional dermatological therapy, EVs as a cell-free therapy, offer multiple advantages, including targeted delivery, low toxicity, personalised treatment and multifunctionality. Recent research data have suggested the potential superiority of plant EVs compared to other skin cosmetics ingredients, mainly due to their lack of inherent risk, as well as targeted action with multiple delivery methods.
The skin is a primary barrier against pathogenic microorganisms, UV radiation, chemicals and mechanical damage while it also regulates body temperature and the amount of water excreted. Moisture loss and oxidative stress are the main culprits of skin ageing, regardless of the skin type. When skin becomes dehydrated and stressed, it loses its firmness, elasticity and youthfulness. Research for effective regenerative and anti-ageing products is on a constant upward trend. In 2022, the global skin care market generated significant revenue and by 2027, this revenue is expected to grow further, with the fastest growth rate occurring on the market of high quality skin care based on herbal products. At the same time, the interest in the use of EVs in skin cosmetics has sharply increased on a global level. In the Greek market of skin cosmetics, plant EVs come mainly from the Asian market but their concentrations, as well as their exact origin or whether there have been previously tested for effectiveness of their action, are not disclosed.
The main objective of PLEXDERM is the full characterization of EVs from selected Greek, leafy cultivated plants (tomatoes, carob) and fruits (avocado, oranges), with the ultimate goal of their biotechnological use in skin cosmetic and dermatological applications, with emphasis on regenerative and anti-ageing products. Within PLEXDERM, the methodology for the isolation, detailed biophysical and molecular characterization and evaluation of the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, regenerative and anti-ageing properties of the selected plant EVs will be developed for the first time in Greece. The methodological portfolio of PLEXDERM will combine in vitro cellular models and biomaterial skin analogues with in vivo organismal models (the nematode worm C. elegans) to achieve highly applicable results.
The interdisciplinary partnership between three strong research institutions (Hellenic Pasteur Institute, National Hellenic Research Foundation, Foundation for Research & Technology-Hellas) and the rising SME YOUTH LAB will lead to the development of a series of three innovative regenerative and anti-ageing products with high added value and expected to reach high applicability in both the Greek and international markets. The skin effect of these model products will be scientifically documented, based on experimental data, and will be proven by efficacy tests on volunteers of both genders. The scientific and economic benefits will be multiple, both directly for the stakeholders and for the national economy, supporting the development of this specific sector and the creation and maintenance of new positions. Overall, PLEXDERM represents the full life cycle of an innovative venture based on the commercialization of high quality research results.
Project status
In progress
Source of funding
NATIONAL FUNDS - NSRF 2021–2027 - Action “Research – Innovate”, Intervention II: “Partnerships of Enterprises with Research Organisations”
Implementation period
SEP 10, 2026 - SEP 09, 2029
HPI budget
€331660
Total budget
€1573936
Project ID number
ΕΚΠΑΡ02-0043521
Principal Investigator
Dr. Urania Georgopoulou
Research Director
Mail: uraniag@pasteur.gr
Tel:+30 2106478877